TE AO HOU The New World [electronic resource]

No. 15 (July 1956)

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TAHITI

My Visit to Kinsmen
of Ancient Days
by
Rangi Harrison

I landed in tahiti on the 23rd of June and from this date on to about the 12th of July, I spent my time travelling around the island, mixing with the people and studying the language. The island of Tahiti consists of two parts, the bigger part being called Tahiti nui and the smaller Tahiti iti. These two parts are joined only by a narrow strip of land, with a road right around Tahiti nui, and on Tahiti iti on the east side the road goes as far as Tautira and on the western side as far as Te Ahupoo, leaving the end of the island (or the district of Pari as it is called) with no roads and quite in its primitive state. It is a very mountainous island with a strip of flat land running right around it, making it appear some-what like a hat in shape, with the hills covered in tropical forests and shrubs and coconut trees growing down to the water's edge.

On the 13th of July Papeete was teeming with people, from England, America, France, Australia, New Zealand and many of the surrounding islands such as Fiji, Samoa, Rarotonga, Aitutaki, Hawaii, and from the Society Islands—Borabora, Raiatea, Hauhine—from the Tuamotu group and as far away as Rapa nui known as Easter Island.

This great mixture of people were all here for the July Celebrations on the following day. That afternoon at 3 o'clock the guns were fired, being a sign that the Bastille celebrations were about to begin. I have never experienced anything like it, outside of Tahiti. Hundreds of Tahitians all dressed in their own costumes, filled the park or marae, and from there we all marched through town to the beat of Tahitian drums, ending up at the house of the Governor. Here before the Governor, speeches were made by all the different chiefs, gifts of sucking pigs, fowl and bananas were presented, and after all this was over we again followed the beat of the drums down to the waterfront. So began the Tiurae, as the Tahitians call it. I was surprised at the variety they had here, for there were merry-go-rounds, spinning wheels, darts, rifle range, food stalls, ice cream and drink stalls, and best of all, the dancing halls. All these places were built up along the waterfront, the frame work was timber, the roofs iron, and all the sides were thatched with ni-au leaves, the place being all lit up with many coloured lights. At night the show went on until one or two o'clock in the morning only closing in order to prepare for the next day which was only a few hours off. For two weeks this went on day and night, and I began to wonder how the people managed to carry on financially, as I was told that this was a very poor season for copra and prices were low.

For three nights the dancing competitions were on from 8 o'clock until 12 o'clock, and I thoroughly enjoyed every part of it. From where I was sitting I was able to look down on the dancers as they performed, and what a performance. All the teams were competing in such dances as the otea, aparima, paoa, himinau, and finally a chant, or pehe as it is called. Each team had their own style of uniform and their own style of dancing. On Wednesday, 27th July, I went to the island of Moorea, about 20 miles away. As we entered Pao Pao Bay, you cannot imagine how thrilled I was at the sight before us, such beauty I had not seen before.

That night we visited a village called Te Mae, where we were to see a dance done in real Tahitian fashion. On arrival at Te Mae, we were met on the road by men carrying flaming torches to show us the way, and as we entered the gateway I heard the cry of “Ia orana outou, haere mai.” When I heard this it was as if I was back home among my own Maori people. We were seated underneath trees on one end of the lawn, and after the chief had spoken to us and welcomed us to this island and his village, the fun began. Although I had seen the on' Tahiti in Papeete during the July celebrations, it was nothing like this. This was the on' Tahiti in reality. It was a lovely warm night, a green lawn surrounded by huge shady trees, and sweetly smelling flowers. The lawn was lit up by many hundred

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burning torches and lanterns, and sitting around in front of us were the people of Te Mae village. Everyone dressed in their beautifully coloured on' costumes, and around their necks hung leis of gorgeously coloured flowers.

Moe, piti, toru, yelled the dancing leader, and as the pahu's beat out the age-old island rythmn of Polynesia, so also did these people, old and young alike, perform dances that exist nowhere else in the world but Polynesia.

AN ANCIENT MARAE

On Tuesday, 9th August, I persuaded a friend of mine to run me out to Tautira in his car. On reaching the district of Paea we visited an ancient Tahitian marae called Arahurahu, this being the only marae in all Tahiti that has been rebuilt and looked after. It was very interesting to walk through and inspect this marae, very different to what we call a marae in New Zealand. For here in Tahiti, the days of the marae are over and forgotten, for the original purpose of the marae was to provide a place for the crownings of kings, and a place where sacred events were practised. Now there is neither king nor queen. No do they perform sacred rites any more. Reaching the district of Papara we called in to see another marae called Mahiatea, the biggest marae of Tahiti and probably of the whole of Polynesia. It is one of the most recent maraes having been built between 1766 and 1768 by Queen Purea for her son Teri'iere. The altar called an ahu measured 26ft long and consisted of eleven tiers reaching a total height of 51ft. The courtyard, called a Pae Pae (377ft) at the end of which stood the Ahu, extended towards the west on a spot where a private dwelling now stands.

Ceremonial dance at Bastille day celebration. Papeete. Instead of the poi. Tahitians swing bundles of dried grass in some dances. (Pacific Photos

Tahitian houses have thatched roofs and walls are thatched reed panels. The same method of weaving is used as in Maori baskets but the strands are closer together. (Pacific Photos)

On the whole this marae is about four times the size of the one in Paea and is situated on a point of beach land over looking the bay.

Tautira is a fair sized village with a picture hall, two grocery stores, a bakery and a little wine shop. I rented a bach from an elderly Tahitian called Pepe and also arranged to have meals at his place. My friend went back, leaving me to spend my first night in this district of Tautira, gateway to the land of Pari, land of rugged bush-clad hills, waterfalls, caves and cliffs to the water's edge. Early the next morning I set off in a canoe for the reefs, to do a spot of fishing. Pepe fished while I swam around looking at the coral and walking up and down the reef, which is a wonderful sight. A few weeks before I had seen this from the air, and now I was right in among it all. It seemed so unreal that had I not seen it. I should not have believed. While awaiting tea. I marvelled at the coral which is able to stand up to such a battering from the waves and yet still remain intact.

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This dance is known as the Otea. Leading woman is Germaine, most famous of South Pacific dancers. Her troupe are all male dancers from the island of Borabora. Main decoration of these elaborate dresses and headbands are shells with which all garments are studded. (Pacific Photos)

“Haere mai ta maa.” I heard Pepe call, and away I went to join him in the evening meal. Pepe could speak a little English. We used to talk in Tahitian, until I couldn't understand; then he would explain things to me in what little English he knew, which was enough to be understood.

It is a very pretty place, but as we walked through the forest, I noticed that the trees never reached the size of our New Zealand trees, although the tree ferns were the same. One day returning from a canoe trip we pulled in to the shore, and Pepe and I climbed up the face of a cliff to see an old grave, which was under an overhanging rock, but only a few bones remained of the skeleton that was once inside. Later we pulled into an island off the shore of Pari, which was only a quarter of a mile from the other island called Fenua' ino. After a meal we crossed over to the shore to a place called Mauoro. Now Mauoro is a small flat piece of land measuring about a quarter of an acre overgrown with Purau trees. Through these trees we went until we reached the foot of a steep hill side, and here facing the east and the rising sun were two stones, about 3 to 4 feet in height and width, and upon them are ancient drawings. On one is a drawing of the sun, which actually faces the rising sun. The other stone facing south has drawings of a star and quarter moon, exactly like the Whetumarama or badge worn by members of the Ratana movement here in New

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Zealand. According to Pepe, his grandfather had told him that this place in the days gone by, was tapu, and, that it was a place of worship. From here we walked about 20 chains along the hillside to where, down by the sea was another huge stone about 10ft high and about the same width and length. Near the top was a round, clean hole bored through the stone. By looking through it, one could see out to sea. According to my friend, this was also one of the many things done by the folks of old. The name of this rock was “Te here a Umere.” We walked on around the island for about a 100 yards to where on a small hillock, was yet another rock, and a fairly large one too. What interested me was the fact that it had two holes about the size of a saucer and about 9 to 12 inches apart, one hole being blocked with a rock and the other being open. Pepe took hold of a branch of the coconut tree and with this he beat upon the open hole and it let out a booming sound. Pepe told me that in the old days this rock was used as a pahu or drum. When the surrounding people heard that drum it was signal to gather in the valley of Vai' ate. During their “hui raa tira” as the Tahitians called it, they even danced to the beating of this drum which was known throughout Tahiti as ‘Te Pahu i Vaiate.’

KNOWLEDGE OF HISTORY LACKING

After spending a week here, I moved on to Pura ania, where I again rented a little ni-au whare which was right down near the sea. I spent a week here also, then went back to Papeete where I had to call on a few people before leaving for New Zealand. Among the many people I met, both young and old, I failed to find a person who knew much about the history or genealogies of Tahiti. I was told that there were possibly one or two old folk that would know something of the history in Tahiti, but if I went out to the other islands such as the Tua Motu group I would find people there versed in history. Unfortunately time was short for me, so I will leave that part of my business for another time. In my studies I also found that the language spoken in Tahiti today is not true Tahitian or parau tumu as it is called. The arrival of European settlers and missionaries with their laws, customs and beliefs, changed everything. Nevertheless this is Tahiti, or better known to the elder folk as, Tahiti nui i te vai uri rau te rau te oto o te Manu, meaning Great Tahiti of many waters and many coloured birds.

On Friday, 9th September, I said farewell to Tahiti. As our boat pulled away from the wharf. I could hear the cries of “bon voyage,” and from my friends came their Tahitian farewell, “Parahi oe e raei,” and from the depths of my heart I answered, “Parahi ra-a to-u hare rahi ia outau e hoa ma” (farewell my love to you all my friends). As the flying boat circled above Papeete I took my last look until next time, at this island of Tahiti, Mother island of French Oceania.

Partly based on European church singing, but still very Polynesian in character is the weird beauty of the Tahitian ‘himene’. The leader closes her eyes and buries her head in her hands. Suddenly she breaks into a clear-cut phrase to which the others reply in a close-knit harmony. The music has a fast and vigorous rhythm. As the women chant, the men on the outside clap their knees and sway side to side, singing deep short notes which give an effective ground work for the tune.

The Tahitian spear is about ten feet long and the greatest agility is needed to wield it. A fishing net is drying in the foreground.